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. Holley Pro-Jection 4D Issue - Starts, Doesn't Run.
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I just installed a Holley Pro-Jection 4D system on my 66 Chevy big block, and having issues to get it to run. I'm able to start the car, but it doesn't run for more than a second or two. Key is turned on, pump primes the system, injectors spray fuel when throttle is pushed. Car starts, but will not keep running. I'm running an HEI distributor. I clipped the yellow/black wire before the 4 pin connector, crimped a connector to the wire, and attached to the tach output on the distributor.
I have the programmer hooked up and get a red light. Any help on keeping it running would be great. Don't have the diagram in front of me, so I don't know what you mean, '4 pin connector.' I would jury rig enough stuff to attempt to check a couple of things: First, is it possible it's only running on the coil resistor bypass circuit on the solenoid, and not actually getting ignition 'run' voltage to something, the EFI, the pump, the ignition? Second, I would try to separate into fuel or ignition. If you can get it to rev a bit before dying, watch the tach.
Does the tach 'fall' immediately like it lost trigger or power, or does it 'follow' RPM coasting down? If this does not work, try taping a cheap neon tester (or your timing light) to a plug wire. Does the spark quit as the engine tries to die, or keep going? Monitor fuel pressure. It stays steady as it dies?
Again revving before it quits, can you SEE the injectors stop delivering? No luck with the MSD 8920.
Same thing, start, no run. I disconnected the yellow/black wire from the tach, and got the same result with starting, no run. Do I have the correct tach wire from the harness hooked to the GM HEI distributor? I see 12 volts on the output of the signal amplifier during start. Red wire from harness to battery 12 volt. Red/white wire from harness to 12 volt switched power in the run position. I tried calling the Holley customer support line, Wednesday morning 8:10 am.
I was 1st in the Que and gave up after 30 minutes on hold. I called back and was 3rd in Que. And gave up after 20 minutes. Left a message for a call back, no callback as of yet on Friday. About us Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades.
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Hello, I'm looking into starting my EFI learning, using a Holley Projection 4 Throttle body that has 4 injectors. I bought this off ebay, the ecu was D.O.A. So looking at options. If I remember correctly they are 80 or 90 pound injectors. Will start with fuel only then add ign. Control later and then go MPEFI later on another vehicle. My question is will a MSII work with this throttle body.
And if so, would you have one injector driver run all 4 injectors,or one driver per injector?? This will be put on the tired 305 under the hood now to learn how to install and tune then moved on to a G.M. Gen I 350 with 330 hp. In a 3900-4000 lb vehicle. Is this a good idea???
Or will putting it on a tired engine only fog my learning and play havoc when I install the new 350?? Thanks for any help. Excellent plan!
An MS2 should work perfectly with it. I believe the injectors are 'low-impedance' so just be sure to set that accordingly when wired up. IIRC the throttle body on the Projection's are progressive, so the MS2 has two injector output's (and multiple injectors can be wired to each output), so you would wire one output to the front two injectors and the second to the second two injectors and stage the second set of injectors to come on when the rear throttle blades start to move. The two injector drivers can be fueled independently of each other so you'd just start ramping the second set up in flow after a certain TPS amount.
For ignition, I'd start with a standard 4-pin HEI and get your tach signal from the distributor cap (run it through the VR circuitry). Then when you are ready for ignition control, zip or wire tie the mechanical advance into a fixed position, disconnect the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance, and run the tach and a ground wire to the pickup coil in the distributor. Then the MS2 Ignition Out wire to the ground side of the ignition coil (or to the points lead of an ignition box, like a 6AL). Then with the correct settings it'll control ignition timing. If you get a 3.0 or 3.57 MegaSquirt board, you can upgrade to a MS3/3X down the road if you feel you need/want the expansion. If you get a Microsquirt, it's MS2 software and wiring and pretty robust. The other thing is, if in the future you decide you want an MS3 or MSPro, you can use an old Microsquirt or MS2 on the 3.0/3.57 board to control an electric transmission.
I'm about to go down this route for a 4L60e with a spare MS2 I have after upgrading to MS3/3x. So less waste after an upgrade so to speak. Any tuning you do/learn on the 305 will easily transfer over to the 350. Heck, when I first started my 250cid L6 engine, I used my Buick 455cid tune, just changed the 'required fuel', injector size & number and firing order settings, and it fired right up and needed only a few small fuel adjustments from there to start nicely and free rev nicely to begin actual tuning. The hardest part will be dialing in the staged injectors if the throttle body is progressive. That would be one headache you won't have with multi-port injection. BUT it would be good experience to have if you end up staging a set of multi-port injectors for race gas, nitrous, etc.
If the TBI doesn't have progressive linkage, then the tuning is linear and pretty simple, aka same as multi-port tuning. I started in 2008 with a 2-bbl TBI and an MS1 and soon after MS2 fuel only batch fire multi-port on a V8, and a month later (when I was comfortable with the fuel side and driving it) added ignition control. Then eventually added a crank trigger for steadier timing (not that the distributor timing is bad). Then a couple years after swapped in a MS3 processor with the 3x board and re-wired the injector harness for sequential fuel injection and converted my distributor to a cam sensor (which it doesn't need for semi-sequential running).
Once that was running smoothly, a year or so later I went distributorless and added LS coils to the engine. Just utilizing/adding features bit by bit as I got more comfortable with the features I was using. I'm now starting to delve into launch and traction control. Don't have to eat the whole elephant at once That's why I think your plan is an excellent one! The MS 3.0 and 3.57 boards have a built in MAP sensor (the processor can be swapped between the MS1,2&3), which you can also upgrade to the 'MAP Daddy' board with a barometric sensor too as well as will handle higher boost levels if you go that direction (the on board one is good to something like 20psi).
The MicroSquirt requires an external sensor. 4-pin HEI is in reference to the module in the HEI distributor. The 4-pin one is the big cap HEI that was being used in the 70's through early 80's. The later 80's HEI's are big cap 7-pin and the small cap 8-pin. Either one can be used with the MegaSquirt for timing control, but only the 4-pin one can be reliably used without ECU timing control. My recommendation is still to start with a 4-pin HEI.
If you want a small cap distributor for aesthetics, you can use one when you are comfortable with timing control, or jump right into timing control from the start by getting your 'Tach In' signal straight from the small cap pickup coil. IMO, I wouldn't bother ever using the 7-pin or 8-pin ignition modules. They sound simpler to use, but in reality they are just extra complexity in the system. Just let the MegaSquirt do the job. Wideband sensors are not necessarily hard to find, its the controller for the wideband's that you need.
The MegaSquirt cannot directly control/read a wideband O2 sensor, so your best bet is to pick up an aftermarket controller/sensor combo. My recommendation is the Innovate LC2, but essentially any of the commercial ones will have a 0-5v output that the MegaSquirt can use. The regular MAP sensor is good for around 22psi of boost (2.5 bar) and the MapDaddy is good for another 20psi of boost (1.5 bar). Plus has a second sensor on it for real time barometric(elevation) corrections.I very loosely approximated the bar to psi values.Is that what the MAF does, or is that totally different?? Sorry for all the questions. I found the MS forums, and it's a tad overwhelming.
I don't think I'd ever hit over 22psi any time soon, but is the other (highlighted) worth having,? And can it be added to the basic MSIII kit.? 4 c-notes doesn't seem that bad. Yes a MAF can compensate for elevation, but there is almost no reason to ever use a MAF sensor on an aftermarket EFI setup.
Typically they are expensive and limit actual airflow for higher HP applications. I live at 6,500ft, work at 7,000ft, often drive down a few thousand feet without turning the car off, so I have the MapDaddy upgrades on mine. If most your driving is below 5,000ft, you are likely fine without one and you could always upgrade it later or simply wire in an external MAP sensor later to be a barometer. Aka easy later upgrade if needed.